After much thinking, the car quest has been reopened with a new, more focused mission. Version 1.0 dealt with getting a LBC (Little British Car). Version 2.0 deals with getting a specific LBC, an Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite. In addition, I've come to terms with the fact that I am not interested in doing a restoration right now. I'd rather be driving. So the quest will focus on cars that need very little work. This means more up-front money, but probably less spent in the long term.

The first task in the quest is to get the TR4 ready to be passed on to a new owner. I want to finish sorting out the electrical system, so I will at least be able to pass it on in better shape than I found it. My hope is to have it sold by spring so that I can get on with the search.

The car fund will probably need to get to about $8000 before I can get serious about looking. A considerable chunk of money in my terms, but with recent playing and the value of the TR4, I should be in decent shape sometime later this year.

Once more into the breach!

I'll be adding a new section to the Vroom pages detailing my little auto library, with reviews and some links to where (or if) you can buy the book. I've been playing a lot lately with Delicious Library, a Macintosh program for organizing your books. It can scan in the barcodes from your books, and looks them up online to get info and cover art. Too damn cool.

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I remembered why I was selling my TR4--time. Too many hobbies, too much stuff that I like to do, not enough time to devote to a restoration. This time around, I don't want to compromise. I want to find the right car, done and sorted, that I can drive and enjoy. I'll have to wait longer, save more, but in the end I'll have what I want. And what is it that I want? Here, for your reading pleasure, is my Statement of Bugeye.

• Restored/rust free and sorted out
• 948 motor
• Color is not important, just should be in good enough shape that it doesn't need to be redone anytime soon--just not 70s metal flake red. Please God No.
• All original, meaning drum brakes, no radio, generator, original steering wheel

When it gets down to it, I'm a fan of originality. I might make changes later, but I'd always want to be able to go back to the original. Can't really say why, but that's what I seem to be drawn to. Maybe it's just the purity of the original design, the intent of the folks who dreamed it up in the beginning. Who knows. What I do know is that I won't be happy with it unless I keep myself focused.

1. How can you not like that smiling face? Cute eyes aside, the lines of the car are just so beautiful from any angle, so pure. It is worth remembering that this was a cheap car in its day. Proof, I think, that a low cost car can still be attractive.
2. A Bugeye is about as simple a car as you can find. Not even any exterior door handles. It is the expression of what a car should be, based on the ideas of just a few people. Though it was produced by the much larger British Motor Company (Morris, MG, Austin, and other brands at the time), it was designed by the Donald Healey Car Company, a very small business. Not a car by committee or bureaucracy, but a car born from a passion for automobiles.
3. I'm not really a fast driver, and I'm just fine having my fun at or below the speed limit. Bugeyes are good fun around town, and no one will even know.
4. It fits with my less-is-more ideal. I don't pretend to live this way as much as I feel I should, but I am still drawn to smaller, lighter, simpler things. The Bugeye is a really good example of this. It's a tiny car by modern standards, but I fit just fine. It's not too expensive either--more than some classic cars, but even a really nice one is within reason for me.

In the end, it comes down to the simple "I just like them" statement. When I first saw one in person at the British Field Day a couple of years ago, I was smitten. I figured it was way too expensive for me to even dream about, but I was wrong. Not cheap, but for around the cost of my Hyundai I can get a really nice one. For perspective, a Bugeye and my Hyundai together cost about what my 2001 Subaru Outback cost me in 2001. I seem to keep needing to learn this lesson, but I don't take to compromise very well. I never wind up satisfied. So I'm going to try to be patient, follow my heart this time, and bring home a car that smiles back.

I'm trying to frame it in this way: the $10k is a solution to a problem. One half of the problem is that I don't have a fun car that I'm passionate about right now. That part I do understand. The other half is the question of what that vehicle would be. Old car, hence the Bugeye? Old truck (I really enjoyed the '76 FJ40 Land Cruiser I had 10 years ago)? New fun car--Miata, Mini, Jeep?

I love to travel. I've had some great road trips, in cars and by motorcycle, and Utah and the surrounding areas make for wonderful travel. This would seem to head me more towards modern cars, but I've already got 2 of those. Also in the mix is the fact that I will have another motorcycle one of these days. They make maybe the best touring of all. Just writing this down seems to solidify in my mind the vision of our 2 modern cars (mine a dependable and boring Hyundai), a Bugeye, and a bike for touring. Maybe I do know the question after all.

A good road trip is my favorite form of vacation. Solo, with Jenny, with friends, I just like to travel. One of the advantages of living in the western USA is that there are a huge number of great destinations out here, even for just a weekend trip. National Parks are in abundance, and there are at least 7 or 8 within a day's drive of my house. It's a wonderful place to drive.

I've been thinking about this a lot as I have been debating what sort of fun vehicle to get. While a road trip is always fun, the vehicle does make a difference. Some trips here in Utah would benefit from off-road ability. Some particularly twisty bits call for an open sports car, or maybe a motorcycle. Ah yes, the motorcycle. I really miss my bike (sold to finance Car Quest 1.0). Motorcycle touring may just be my favorite form of touring. A good adventure bike gets me as back country as I want to go, and still travels quickly and economically on the freeway.

I've thought about using a vintage car/truck for touring, but have pretty much come to the conclusion that I would never be completely comfortable with that. Too much risk of breakdown, and some of the trips here in Utah mean long stretches of high speed, not the best for a 40 year old car. Occasional tours, sure, but I wouldn't want to rely on it. I'd rather the fun car be just that, for fun trips only. So, a bike and an old car seem to be in my future. Sounds good to me.

Part of it is that I just like things that are unique, that stand out. Those old cars with their tiny size, odd controls (cable pull starter? bugeyed headlamps?) sure don't look like anything done today. Is that enough to make me want to own and care for one, however? I don't really have a full answer for that.

Indivisible from this question is the issue of resources, specifically money. As a normal working citizen I am always faced with limited funds. No hardships, to be sure, but "having it all right now" is not really an option. At the very least, I have to space out my toy purchases, and save up in the interim in time frames measured in years. I've never been that patient once I get an idea in my head. So I'm continuing to work through these questions since I really need to get the next purchase right. As of today I think that I'd like both, a Bugeye and a modern bike (Triumph Bonneville to be specific, a modern classic). Maybe I just need to start the planning to get both.

Even though it's only been a few months, I've come to some conclusions. I like the old cars, and I like working on them. Mostly though, I like driving them. I don't mind spending time doing maintenance and troubleshooting, but the thought of a major restoration just isn't very appealing now. Mostly because of time.

Much of my non-day-job time is dedicated to playing music. The bands are playing a lot now, which is fun and provides funding for the car hobby. Takes a lot of time, though. It is not that rare anymore to have 10+ shows in a month, sometimes without a free weekend at all. Doesn't leave much time to finish a car in my lifetime. With time for hiking, skiing, biking, and wifeing (is that a word?) there is not much time left for a major restoration. And given the choice, I'd rather drive more and wrench less.

So this may be the most important lesson from my tenure as a TR4 owner. It really is worth it to me to have a car that is already in good shape. One I can drive and maintain, but that doesn't need a major overhaul. Unfortunately, the Triumph is not that car.

Ever since I started my car quest, my favorite car has been an Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite. I didn't get one at first, because they are a little more expensive. They are, however, my favorite. So now I enter Car Quest 2.0, the quest for the Bugeye. I've sold the TR4 now, and am on the hunt for a good Bugeye and a cheap motorcycle. It will take a little while, but the end result will be worth it.

TR3A, similar to the one I'm looking at

I went down to the dealership and took a look, and it appears at first glance to be a very clean car, with little to no rust. Many years on the restoration, but lightly driven since. I'm going down to drive it on Saturday to get a feel for its real condition. I hadn't really considered a TR3 before, since they have always seemed to be much more expensive than a Bugeye or Spitfire. However, this owner has moved out of town and may be a more motivated seller. If it all checked out, I'd be at least interested. I'm still trying to decide if going the non-Bugeye route is smart--the TR3 has some advantages (faster, those low doors, very beautiful design) but is a little more expensive, and of course it is not a Bugeye! This one is also local, which saves on a bunch of shipping expense and hassle. If nothing else, it is the nicest British car I've looked at yet, so I should be able to get a feel for what a real car is like.

For that reason, this was a very valuable diversion. I am back to being focused on just the Bugeye. I'm keeping the "smiles per miles" calculation firmly in mind. I don't want to think that I compromised from what I wanted, not for this kind of an adventure. This is a want-to, not a have-to after all. The money I've saved won't expire, and this desire for an old car is just that, a desire. I've got a perfectly functional car for getting around in, so this is a pure pleasure pursuit. And for that, now, only a Bugeye will do.

Needless to say, I'm quite excited. It will be a few weeks until I can get it here, so I'll have to be patient until then.

I'm very excited, and ready to get going on the work needed to get the car sorted out and ready for the summer driving season. Not too much planned right away, just a good going over of the electrical system, removing the (useless) rollbar, and any other stuff that comes up. The car is in good shape, and is essentially original as far as I can initially see. And it is so cute!

The car even has a name already, the Tunebug. All the funds to buy it came from playing music over the last couple of years. Two of my favorite things come together.

Tunebug and me at Deer Creek reservoir, right after I got the plates

I've got a line on an entire later car that has come up locally, and is reasonably priced. We'll see in a few days. Never rebuilt a motor before, so it will be an interesting experience for sure.

The Sprout (Jenny's Isuzu Rodeo Sport} impressed me with its towing abilities. It handled Parley's canyon just fine (about 50mph up the steep stuff) and pulled the trailer with the car on it well.

The plan is to remove the bits I need over the next few months, and sell off the parts I'm not interested in. I had thought briefly about keeping the car, but I really only want one car.

1. Send radiator and gas tank out for cleaning and re-coring if necessary.
2. Strip the MG engine and figure out what the rebuild will require as far as parts and budget goes.
3. Acquire the rest of the bits necessary for the 5-speed conversion, and select a kit provider.

If I can get that far this year, I'll feel pretty good. Mostly, I want to spend as much time driving around as possible. Hopefully the radiator work will help with the overheating issues. That, and a good tune-up, should see the old 948 engine through one more season.

Working behind the dash

I've done a lot of thinking about the Tunebug this winter, and I'm really pleased with what I wound up with. He's a happy little car, sort of like a little puppy. I think I can make him into what I want, and still keep the budget reasonable. Should be a fun adventure!

Then I drove my Bugeye (with original tired engine and such) up here in the mountains and was faced with a choice. Drive 35 mph up the steep hills here, or start modifying. At first, I though very seriously about selling it to buy something faster. I was stopped by the fact that I really like Bugeyes, and I found a very good and sound little car. So the modification side started to win over.

After many hours spent thinking, worrying, and dreaming this past winter, I have begun to see a vision for this car coming together. Funny how this happens, it seems like all of a sudden the path I would take was clear. I've lived with the vision now for a month or so, and I think it's going to work out right. Here it is:

• No cutting. This is the big one. Changes are good, but must be reversible.
• Maintain stock appearance. I want to sit in the car or look at the engine bay and it should look like it hasn't been altered.
• Use related upgrade parts. By this I mean using a later A-series motor, dual SU carbs, a period looking (though smaller) steering wheel. I will do the Datsun 5-speed change, but will adapt a stock 4-speed shift knob so it looks hidden. Nothing radical, but solid changes that will give me the driving experience I want.

In the end, I want the vintage experience but with enough modern performance that it is still fun to drive up here in the mountains. If any original parts need to be modified (such as re-sleeving the brake master cylinder for disc brakes) , I'll find good used parts and save the originals. Takes a bit of extra work that way, but it preserves the originality for the future. A non expert should not be able to tell the difference between the Tunebug and a stock Bugeye, unless they go for a ride!

This bass was Fender's student model throughout the 60s and 70s. US made, but definitely aimed at the low end of the market. It is a short scale (30" versus the normal 34") as well, and the body is pretty much a guitar sized body.

What is not apparent from the picture for those who are not Fender collectors, is that this bass is highly modified. It's been repainted (similar black as original), and I've changed the following:

• Mother of pearl pickguard in place of original black
• New modern tuning machines and roller string retainers
• New modern bass pickup in place of original (which was a guitar pickup)
• All new wiring and shielding, including removing the tone circuit and knob

What I've wound up with is something that is far better than the original ever was. The sound is incredible (low end like a Fender P-Bass for you bassists out there) and easy to play due to the short scale. Light weight too. But it still looks the part, and a non-expert wouldn't be able to tell it wasn't original. Bought originally as an interesting spare, it's now one of my 2 main gigging basses. I love it.

One important aspect for me is that I still consider it to be a vintage Fender. Sure, my modifications have hurt the resale value, but by the time it is sold I'll be dead and won't care! I haven't taken away from the soul of the instrument, just allowed that soul room to really sing.

I've thought about this bass a lot as I've been pondering my course of action with the Tunebug. As I wrote last time, I was really against any sort of modification in the beginning. The reality, though, is that as a usable item Tunebug needed some improvements. So I've been looking at the same course that I took with the bass, and think it will work right for the Tunebug as well. Protect that soul, keep modifications modest, but make them the ones that really count.

The parallels between the two are also interesting. Both were affordable entry level models, designed to bring what they offer to the masses. Both are light weight and capable of far more than you would expect. Both have a name with real heritage, and a design that is simple and to the point. Both are capable of bringing a real smile to my face, too.

Bugeye Starting 

He fired right up! Lots to do this spring to really get him ready for the season, but it was nice, if only for a couple minutes, to drive around again. Looks like it's going to be a good season.

The simple fact comes up that these cars just aren't worth all that much, so spending multiple thousands on upgrades is never financially a good idea. Of course, that's not why I'm in this--it is a hobby so I don't expect to recover any more than the original purchase price of the car. However, adding up the numbers does make for an interesting exercise.

The thing I want to avoid the most is spending what is for me a large sum of money and not getting what I want out of it. I'm trying to plan intelligently, and get my expectations set realistically for what is possible given what I can afford. I live in a fairly hostile environment for these little cars--high elevation (5550' up to 9000' or so) with some fairly steep grades and often hot summer temperatures. Not the best place for a tiny car with a tiny motor.

While I continue to enjoy my Bugeye, I'm also remaining open to the other option I looked at before, that of switching to a car with a bigger motor (MGB being the #1 current contender). At some point, the extra I didn't want to spend before becomes money I have to spend anyways, so I feel the need to think about it again. I'll be calling a fellow by the name of Hap Waldrop who is a race car builder and very familiar with what can be done to a Sprite motor. Hopefully I'll be able to figure out how much it will cost to get the performance I'm looking for, and then I can make a better decision as to if it is worth the money to go down that route.

In the mean time I'll be driving the Tunebug around on the old engine, and fixing the little things that need attention. So no matter what, it will be a good summer of driving fun!

I'm also trying hard to learn the lesson that I think all old car owners/restorers need to learn -- never add up the costs!

What I have done is decide that it is time to get serious about the mechanical refurbishment that the Tunebug needs. Pretty much all of the mechanical bits that I haven't already worked on need to be at least looked at. So rather than limp along with something that is not reliable, I've made the call to take Tunebug off the road, and start fixing all the bits.

The general order of the work is:

1. Disc brakes: Swap brakesfor later brake system using disc brakes on the front.
2. Rebuild suspension: I'm sure that working on the brakes will highlight all sorts of issues with the suspension. The pieces will already be apart, so that's a good time to get the work done.
3. Rebuild 1275 motor: This is an ongoing project, that will be done in pieces as funding allows.
4. 5-speed swap: I need these bits to go with the new engine, so again as funding allows I'll be gathering up the necessary parts.

This is a fairly aggressive plan, but there is one critical piece that makes it all work out. I'm not holding myself to any sort of timeline for getting it all finished. I'd love to be able to bring the Tunebug to the Sprite gathering in June 2008, but I'm not holding myself to that timeline. As long as I keep working on the car as the funding allows, I'll be making progress.

I just didn't love it.

A motorcycle is not a practical item, at least not where I live. Too cold and snowy in the winter to use a bike as a year-round transport. So it's for pleasure use only, as the insurance company says. To that end, there is little reason to have a bike that you don't love. It should be an emotional affair.

Yes, Jenny was right, I shouldn't have bought this bike last year. I had a good time on it, and learned a lot, but in the end it's just not the bike for me. It didn't make sense to re-register and insure it for the year, so I put an ad in a few free classifieds. A few calls and visits later, and it looks like I've got the bike sold. I'll know for sure on Thursday night when the buyer comes down from Idaho to pay for and pick up the bike.

Then I'll be off on Bike Quest 2007. More patience will be required, so I don't make the mistake of going off in the wrong direction again. Should make for an interesting year.

If all goes well, I'll be bike-free (and on the hunt for the next bike) next week.

So now the hunt for the next bike is on. I'm a classic guy, there's just no way around it, so that's where I'm heading these days. Here's my current short list, after a day spent bothering salesmen in all of the motorcycle shops in Salt Lake. These are in my current order, but that's subject to change, of course.

1. 2007 Triumph Bonneville -- Goodwood Green
2. 1970s BMW R75/5 or R75/6 -- Black
3. 2007 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic -- Carribean Blue

After that, I'll have the winter to save up a bit of cash for a bike hunt. Winter and early spring are good times to get a deal on a bike, too. A small amount of patience on the bike front should give me good results with the Tunebug, which will help avoid lingering-project frustration that I'm sure would creep in.

That said, the next step is to send the head and carbs off for their work, and get the engine block down to the city for its work. In a week or two all the engine bits should be out of my garage and in line for rebuilding.

A major engine rebuild/performance build fits into that category, I think. If it all goes well, I won’t have to do this again. The cost increase for handing the entire job out to a professional engine shop is not really all that great, and the outcome would be a better engine than I could hope to put together. We’ll see how this all plays out, but I’m definitely leaning towards handing this job off to make sure it is done right the first time.

The motor will be built by Hap Waldrop at the ACME Speed Shop, and is getting the full performance treatment. The main focus is performance and reliability, so I won’t be spending any extra for the shiny bits. This is not a race car, so that informs the process as well. It is going to be a nice, quick motor.

So now it is time to tackle the disc brake conversion, and freshen up the suspension. Going to be a busy (and somewhat expensive) few months, but by spring time I should have a nice running, quick, and solid Tunebug. Woohoo!

1. Engine block (about 76 lbs)
2. Head and carbs
3. Crank, oil pan, assorted bits
4. Small box with the flywheel and a few more bits

The engine is now winging its way to South Carolina for the winter rebuild. Each of the boxes was shipable by UPS, a nice extra touch. The completed engine will have to be truck shipped back, but that’s for another day. I’m really excited that the plan is moving forwards — now I’ve got to get busy on the suspension and brakes, to get the Tunebug ready for the next phase. We’ll be driving in the spring!

So now the task is to wait… I hate waiting! The motor should be done in early January, and I’ve got plenty to do until then. Suspension bits need to be cleaned and installed, new brake lines run, new fuel lines run, the list goes on and on. Luckily, some of these projects don’t cost me anything, so I’ll be able to get them tackled before it gets too cold for garage work.

I was going back through some old postings on the British Car Forum and ran across this very early post of mine, from right after my first drive in a British sports car (a Bugeye).

A good reminder to me of what lies ahead. Vroom vroom!

I’m still aiming for a mid-June finish date, but we’ll see how well that really goes. Will be done this summer, though, as I want to be clear of most of the projects before next season. 2009 is Tunebug’s 50th birthday, so ne needs to be up and running!

Tunebug’s old engine is out, and I’m trying to ramp up the motivation to get to work on the brakes and suspension. I’ve got most of the refurbished bits on hand, just need to set aside the time to get things installed. It is slowly getting warmer here (though it snowed today), so maybe that motivation will come on stronger now.

I’m still on track to have the Tunebug drivable this year, though it’s looking more like it will be later in the season before that’s a reality. At least progress is being made, if slowly.

Tunebug is ready for work

The plan is very simple:

1. Do something every day, even if just a small task
2. Repeat step 1

This is not rocket science, after all. I've got all the parts in to complete the rear brakes and differential, and most of the bits for the front suspension and disc brake conversion. I've also got enough funds on hand to order the parts I will still need, and thankfully that list is fairly short.

It'll be a long winter out in the garage, but I'm really working hard to keep to my April 2009 deadline.

This week I should get my first rebuilt part installed on the car. That will be a major milestone, and should provide a needed boost. Got to keep that motivation up, and got to keep the goal of driving around next spring firmly in mind.

Well, Joe and I got the bench done 2 weeks ago, but ran out of time before we could finish the other projects. So I have a nice 10' x 2' work bench and no shelves. There are parts all over the garage, and wood stacked up on top of the bench. So no place to work, and no way to get to the parts I need even if I had space. The classic gumption trap.

Hopefully I'll get this sorted soon, so I can get back on track. Got to be driving next season!

The daily work plan didn't really suit me in the end -- made the work seem more like, well, work than the enjoyable hobby time it should be. So I won't be going forward with the must-do-something-daily plan, and instead will just do my best to keep moving forwards.

The economy has taken its toll on the gigging opportunities around here, so I've got time now, for better or worse. Best to take advantage of that time and make some progress.

April break is coming up, and I decided to take the entire week off and focus on Tunebug projects. I've got quite a few things to do, but should be able to get a bunch done with 7 days and no other responsibilities. The basic list of projects is:

1. Finish rebuilding rear hubs and rear differential
2. Install new front suspension and disc brakes
3. Run new brake lines
4. Run new fuel lines and convert to an electric fuel pump
5. Refurbish transmission
6. Install new engine
7. Install engine ancillaries
8. Finish up the little things

I'm only expecting to get through #3 and maybe #4 in the week. Most of the sub-assemblies are already rebuilt and just need to be installed, but I'm a slow worker. My target is to have the car back on its wheels by the end of the week. Anything else I can do is just a bonus.

After a long, cold winter it's time to get to work.

You'll also notice that the old Winter project page is gone, to be replaced with individual pages for each project. More helpful this way for reference, and it doesn't highlight my useless winter. :)

Projects ready to go

Today I got home from work to warm-ish weather and clear skies. There are a couple of parts that need paint, so I motivated and got them painted. I now have the dust shields for the disc brakes and the front spring perches all nicely painted black and ready to go. There are a few more bits to paint, but they're still on the Tunebug so they will have to wait until I get them off the car.

Other than getting the Fit serviced, I've still got the Tunebuggery week free. The weather doesn't look too great, so I'll have no distractions from getting out in the garage and getting some work done.

First up is finishing the rear hubs -- they've been sitting on my work bench since October. By the end of the day they'll be on the car, no matter what!

• Assembled the rear hubs
• Removed, cleaned, and reinstalled the rear differential
• Installed the rear hubs and axle half shafts
• Modified the parking brake rods and installed them -- these still need to be adjusted, but they're in close to the right place
• Removed the tie rod ends

Two of these projects were big ones from a momentum perspective. I've had the rear hubs on my work bench for six months, so it's really nice to have them done and on the car. The tie rod ends were another long-term project. The jamb nuts were well and good stuck on there, and I finally got some good advice on how to remove them. A propane torch, a candle, a bit of cold water, and a really big wrench got things to move at last.

I finally feel like I've moved beyond a block I've had and can begin to image that I'll get this done and be driving this summer. I've still got 8 days left, so more good to come!

Rear hub and axle half shaft installed

Parking brake rods modified and in place (mostly)

Tie rod ends and jamb nuts removed

Tools out and ready to go

It took a few hours, but the right hand side came out without any real drama. The torch was necessary on each of the 4 bolts holding the spring in, but that was to be expected -- it's entirely possibly that those bolts haven't been touched since the car was built in 1959. To remove the springs I used the long-bolt method listed in the Haynes manual. It proved to be a simple method and everything came apart with minimal fuss.

Long bolts used to gradually lower the spring pan

Right hand front suspension all removed

Both sides gone

Once both sides were out I pulled the steering arms (I'll need to reuse those) and pulled out my wire wheel and drill to clean them off. Lots of crud there! Once they were cleaned up it was out to the yard to give them a painting. The steering arms were originally yellow (this could be seen once I cleaned up the crud) but I painted them a nice cast aluminum color, mostly because it's paint I had on hand. It'll work.

Steering arms cleaned and ready for paint, just visible is the old yellow color

Steering arms painted

Tomorrow will be only about a half-day of Tunebuggery. I've got to take the Fit in for its first oil change, and will take advantage of being down in Orem to swing by a few stores and grab some of what I'm missing. I'm really going through things like shop towels and gloves, so it's a good opportunity to stock up. Once I'm back I'll probably start in on the brake lines, and possibly on modifying the rear brake drums. Onward and upward!

I took advantage of being down in Orem for a service on the Fit in the morning and stopped by Harbor Freight for a few odds and ends that I needed. One of those bits was a 4-1/2" angle grinder, needed for modifying the brake drums to fit with my later-style backing plates. Thanks to advice from the good folks at the British Car Forum I knew that I needed to make the brake drums about 1/16" less deep. The method is to grab the handy grinder and grind away. I marked one Sharpie-width around the outside of the drum so I'd know when I'd gone far enough.

Drew with a power tool, showing that drum who's boss

This process proved to be relatively simple, although a bit messy. I did happen to have a test drum on hand -- one that I have modified a bit to use as a rear hub puller. I practiced on that one first to make sure I knew what I was doing.

Test brake drum, showing where I was grinding

Once I had ground the Sharpie line away it was off to the car for a few test fits. I think I've ground enough off, but it's easy enough to pull the drum again and do a bit more if there is still rubbing once everything is fully assembled and adjusted.

New brake drum on and fit properly

The last step was the most fun, as I finally got to put the rear wheels back on for the first time in many months, maybe as much as a year or so! The wheels were torqued up and seemed spin freely. They'll be off and on many more times as I get everything sorted out, but at least for one night the back of the car looks like a car again!

If you squint a bit it looks like a car

Tomorrow is all about putting in the new brake lines. I have a set of hard lines that just need to be bent into the proper shapes. I did one of the lines when I first bought the car, but still have all the rest to get to. I'll do a bit of cleanup around the lines as well while I'm at it, and will put in the soft lines as well. If there is time, I'll get the front A-arms and shocks installed, but that may wait until Wednesday depending on how fast the brake lines go.

Not bad for just 1/2 a day!

Master cylinder assembled on the bench

Once the master cylinder was installed it was time to move to running new brake lines. Back in 2006 when I bought the Tunebug I bought a new set of hard brake lines due to a leak in one of them. These lines have the proper ends and are the right length, but need to be bent to fit in the car. I remember that the last one I did took some time, so I was prepared for the work today.

Bending the first line

There are three lines that I need to replace: From the master cylinder to the union, from the union to the front left wheel, and from the union to the rear axle (the line to the front right wheel was replaced in 2006). The first line from the master cylinder to the brake union went relatively smoothly.

Master cylinder to brake union in place

The next line, running from the union to the front left wheel, took much more time. It's a complicated bend, running underneath the steering rack and threading around all sorts of bits. The trouble came in once I got to where the new line meets the soft line for the front disc brake. The hard line I was working on seems to be a couple inches too long -- either my bends were a little more direct or the line is a bit over long. I'll need to go back and fix the bends tomorrow; I was starting to get frustrated so it was time to leave that project.

Line a bit too long

So I did make progress today, but it was not as visible as in the previous days. Still, it was seven hours of work that needed to be done, and it's more thing done off the list. Four days in and I'm still at it. So far so good!

After a few choice words offered up to the heavens, I broke down and ordered a set of pre-bent brake and clutch lines from Classic Tube. Had I known about these folks when I first ordered lines in 2006, I would have used them. These lines come bent into the proper shape and should be simpler to install. Much simpler. All in all a rough morning, and another expense I didn't want at this point.

That done, I pulled myself together and got to work on the front suspension and steering rack. The steering rack needed new boots and a bit of cleanup. I pulled the old boots and got the new ones installed. The large clamps I had bought for the boots on the inner side were too big, but I was able to clean up and reuse the old ones. Once the boots were in I took a bit of a break to swing into Heber and pick up some grade 8 bolts for the spring pans.

Rack boots installed

Next up came the rest of the front suspension. First task was to install the cleaned and painted steering arms from the Bugeye onto the new spindles. A quick look for some torque values, and the assemblies were ready to go onto the car.

Steering arms installed

At this point I was getting close to the end of the day, but wanted to have a bit more to show for my day's work. I went ahead and bolted on the front shocks and the left side a-arm and spindle assembly. It's only in loosely but it is all in, and I think it's even in correctly. Not the best of days, but I trudged on through and was able to still end the day with a bit of progress.

A-arms and spindle in place

Once all that was sorted I could finally get out into the garage and get to work. I started out installing the left side front A-arm and the associated bits and bobs. Those pieces went in with relative simplicity, and with a bit more fiddling I had them connected to the shocks and torqued properly, and had the dust shields for the disc brakes in place.

Spindles and dust shields in place

As an aside, I noticed that one of my rebuilt front shocks seems to be leaking. I'll call the builder tomorrow -- he's a well know guy who stands by his products so I expect it will be sorted out simply.

Next up was the assembly of the front hubs. Here I was aided by a drawing someone on the British Car Forum had put together that showed the proper assembly setup. This drawing happily matched what my shop manuals said, so with a minimum of fuss I had the hubs assembled and ready to go.

Front hubs assembled and ready to go

After a few quick questions online to make sure I had everything done properly I was able to pop the hubs onto the spindles and torque down the main hub nut. These went on simply, and everything seemed to line up properly.

Hubs and discs installed

I spent the rest of the afternoon working on getting the brake calipers installed. I got one on, only to realize that the bolts holding it to the spindle were hitting the brake disc. Tomorrow's job will be to sort that out and get the calipers and brake pads installed. I've also got to clean up the Bugeye front springs, as I now plan to reuse them. Hopefully the weather will improve so I can get them painted. I should be able to finish up a few other small projects tomorrow, and will be as close to getting the car back on its wheels as I'll be able to this week. Then it's on to transmission and clutch work.

Today felt a bit like the hump day. I had a bit more trouble getting going this morning, but once I was in motion was able to make some progress. I think the rest of the week will move right along, and I should be able to keep the momentum up for the rest of the spring.

Painted springs, brackets, brake drums, and engine mounts

I had a few house-related things to take care of today, so there was a smaller window of working time today. Still, it was good to get those pieces painted as they are blocking the completion of the front suspension bits. I also had a nice chat with the man who rebuilt my front shocks, and we've got a replacement for the leaking one on the way. Excellent customer service all around. This is, by the way, Peter Caldwell of World Wide Auto Parts. I highly recommend them. He absolutely stood by his work, and I can't ask for more than that. Problems can crop up with anything, and how a company deals with them is far more important than if they crop up at all. I'm very happy with the service I've gotten.

Tomorrow will be another short day, as I've a family gathering in the afternoon. I'll try and get the clutch installed onto the engine, as that's a relatively simple project that I can do in the morning. Turns out the bolts to hold it on are the same as the ones I picked up for the spring pans, which means I've got enough on hand for the clutch job and can pick up a few more for the spring pans, which won't get done for a few days anyways. Then it's on to looking over the transmissions and figuring out which one I'm going to use.

The week of Tunebuggery is definitely winding down, so now it's time to look over the work still to come and get it organized and ready to go.

Clutch plate, this side goes away from the flywheel. I think.

I asked the folks at the British Car Forum about the plate orientation, and the initial feel was that I had it right. I decided to install the clutch this way, as I can always pull it off and flip it around if it turns out that I did it wrong.

Clutch installed on the new motor

This will be the last project of the Week of Tunebuggery. Tomorrow's task is to go through all the parts I have lying around, and identify three groups of parts: those I need to reuse, those I want to keep as spares, and those I won't need at all. I'll also be making a list of all the projects still to do. I need to make the next set of plans and identify the parts or services I still need to order so that I can keep up the momentum I've got now. Still plenty of work to do, but the little Tunebug is looking much more like car than it was a week ago.

The next projects, ready to go (mostly)

Once all the parts were organized, I spent some time going over the work still to do and put together a list, incomplete I'm sure, of all that's still to do. It's not too bad of a list, really. Some of it will get done this week, the rest will come soon. I'm still on track for starting up the motor in June.

In no particular order:

• Finish front suspension/brakes once replacement shock arrives
• Front tie rod ends
• Front end alignment
• Brake lines
• Clutch line/slave cylinder
• Transmission rebuild
• Attach transmission to the engine
• Paint pulley for the generator, and acquire a spacer
• Clean/balance the drive shaft
• Install fuel tank, lines, pump, and fuel gauge
• Fix heater tap
• Install parking brake split pins
• Acquire fan belt
• Tighten A-arm bolts once the engine is in place
• Install engine/transmission
• Get the headers coated and installed
• Install exhaust and muffler

Tonight I'll spend some time going through this list and refining it. I'll also add details of each project so I can make sure that I've got all the parts I need, and make up a list of what needs to be ordered. There's not too much left to order, just a few last bits.

Summing it all up

So was it all worth it, taking a week off to work on the Tunebug? Absolutely. Not only did I get a bunch of work done on the car, but I've also rekindled my motivation for getting this all done. For the first time in a long time I can envision driving the car in the near future. This last week has been a great jump-start, and now I just have to keep the efforts going.

I was able to get pretty much everything I had planned done this past week. The brake lines I messed up, and the leaking shock put me back a week or so, but those are minor things. I should have the front suspension done later this coming week, and with that I'll be able to have all four wheels back on. Really, these were just the sort of minor things that come up during any sort of restoration work. I'm really pleased with the progress I made -- now I just have to keep it going!

Calipers and front springs installed

As a final job for the morning I installed the front wheels. This is the first time in over a year that all four wheels have been on the car. It's a sign of some real progress. I still have the tie rod ends to do, but they're waiting in case I have to pull the steering rack in order to fit the new brake lines.

Look ma, all the wheels are on!

Next up is tackling the transmission and figuring out what I want to do for fuel lines and a fuel pump. I've also got to call about getting my exhaust header coated. That's Monday's job, got to keep the process going.

So it's back to some serious Tunebug work. I did a bit of planning today, and also got a few small projects (front brake pads, parking break pins) taken care of. I'd like to get the transmission ready this week, and also get the fuel lines and fuel pump set up.

With those two projects done I'm a set of brake lines away from putting the engine back in. That's a serious milestone! Hopefully I'll be able to motor though these projects this week and be that much closer to driving again!

Stripped and cleaned fuel tank

I spent some time with a wire wheel cleaning the old fuel tank up. It's ready for a final rubdown and painting. Hopefully the weather will cooperate tomorrow and I'll be able to at least get a couple coats of primer on the tank. Following some advice from a friend on the British Car Forum I'm just going to swish a little oil around the inside of the fuel tank and not worry about trying to coat it. I had the tank boiled out last year, so the nastiest stuff is already gone. I'll be running a fuel filter on the line anyways.

Next, I looked over the two transmissions I have on hand. I pulled the side covers off and looked over the gears, shifting through all four gears plus reverse. Took me a little while to figure out reverse, but after a bit of dismantling I got it sorted out. Both transmissions looks very similar on the inside as far as wear goes, but one seemed to my untrained eye to be a bit less worn.

The chosen transmission

It's also a nice side benefit that the slightly better seeming transmission is also the cleaner one on the outside. A happy coincidence.

So the plan for the rest of the week is to get the transmission and fuel tank cleaned up and repainted. I'll also be figuring out the mounting for the new electric fuel pump. I got some great advice from the British Car Forum, so I think I have a plan now for the fuel setup.

Once these two projects are done, I'll be read for brake lines and then the engine goes in. Getting closer!

Tank in primer

As part of this process I also learned that a trailer makes for a nice outside workbench, and keeps errant paint overspray off the ground. The only issue I ran into was my initial less-than-stable coat hanger engineering. The tank slipped out of them once, with only minimal scuffing and no other damage. A little rethinking of the hangers and all was well.

Painted tank

Yesterday I got in my Moss order with a few new bits for the transmission. A new rubber plug and new tail shaft seal were installed between coats of paint on the fuel tank. I also pressed in a new bushing on the clutch fork and got that reinstalled as well. The transmission is now essentially ready to go, just waiting on the paint to dry on a few pieces.

New tail shaft seal

Clutch fork and new throw-out bearing

I also had a nice surprise when I get home, in the form of a box from Classic Tube with my new brake lines! This will be Sunday's project if all goes well. Once those lines are in, I'm just a fuel system install away from being able to install the motor. Woohoo!

This package marks the last major item I was waiting on. While I'm sure I'll have at least one small parts order before I'm back on the road, this was the last big item. I should now have everything I need on hand to get the Tunebug back on the road.

The target is now to have the engine back in by the end of May, and be truly back on the road by June 20 -- our annual British Field Day show. Lots to do still, but it's at least feasible.

After a bit of cooling off, I took a ride out to Home Depot and picked up a few odds and ends, and had a nice ride. Once home, I finished up the transmission. It is now all together and ready to be attached to the engine.

Transmission complete

So not my best day of work, but at least I was able to get one thing finished up.

A pile of lines

Today I got the two lines that run from the brake union to the front wheels in. These are particularly complicated installs, and it feels good to get them done. I was thinking that I had to remove the steering rack, but I was able to unbolt the rack and just move it out of the way a bit -- a good thing since I was having trouble removing the steering column from the rack.

Front lines in

So far I'm reasonably happy with the lines I purchased. The bends are close, but I did have to do some massaging to get them to fit properly. Given the variances between cars, this probably shouldn't be too surprising. Both lines I installed today went in eventually, so I can't complain.

The long run just needed a bit of tweaking, so that was a quick job. Fitting the rear brake lines was a bit more complicated. The Tunebug is running the later style brake backing plates, which put the rear cylinders in a different place than the stock setup. I played a bit with the existing lines and figured out how they needed to run, then worked on each of the new lines to get them to fit. Took a few trips back and forth from the bench to the car, but eventually I got the two lines in place, and connected them to the main hard line.

Next up came the fuel line. My friends on the British Car Forum recommended using 1/4" copper line like you would use for an ice maker. Out came the old line, and in went the new copper line. The copper line bends easily, but you need to be careful to make sure that the line doesn't kink, and that it is supported properly. By lunch time it was roughly in place.

Fuel line at the front

Fuel line running to the back

The weather being so nice, I took a brief trip down to Orem to pick up a few bits -- a good excuse for a nice motorcycle ride through the canyon! Once back it was out to the garage to finish up. A bit more work and the lines were all in place and ready to go. Finishing up the day, I hooked up the front soft lines, so all the brake lines (other than the one I'm waiting for from the vendor) are now in place.

Next up is fitting the new fuel pump and the fuel tank. I'm also just about ready to put in the motor. Exciting stuff!

Tank in place

The next step is very exciting -- it's time to put in the engine and transmission! I went into Park City this morning and picked up all the nuts and bolts I'll need to join the two. $20 of miscellaneous bits -- the poor lady at the counter had lots to enter! I have since located a local fastener store (closed on Saturdays) that I'll have to visit next week.

Engine mount and assorted bolts

I'm now ready for the engine install. Still quite a lot to do before I can start the car, but getting the engine in will be a real motivator and will clear up quite a bit of floor space to boot. I'm hoping to get it installed this weekend if all goes well.

While there's no way I'm going to make British Field Day this year with the car, I do hope to have it running before the end of June. I'll just have to take the Triumph down this year -- it's British as well, so it counts. The new target is to be able to join the Miner's Day parade (known as Labor Day elsewhere) in September. That gives me the summer to get all the details worked out.

My sister is in town this weekend, and she consented to help with the install. All told, it took the three of us (Jenny, my sister Mary, and me) about three hours to get the job done. While I've pulled two engines from Spridgets, this was my first attempt at an installation.

The process was relatively simple, if a bit fiddly. First thing up was to put the wheels back on and roll the car to where it would need to be for the install. Poor little Tunebug hasn't been on his wheels on the ground in over a year.

Mary and Drew roll the Tunebug into place

Once the car was in place, it was time to put the engine and transmission together. I had expected this to be complicated, but the two went together very simply. Then it was time to hook everything up to the engine hoist and start the install. It took a couple tries to find the proper spots to hook up the hoist, but we eventually settled on one of the thermostat bolts and one of the bolts holding the engine and transmission together.

Engine and transmission together again

Mary worked the hoist and Jenny and I jiggered everything into place. Lots of up a little, tilt a little, down a little, now back a little...

In we go

I was under the car helping everything line up when I noticed that the engine/transmission unit seemed a bit stuck. I looked at the transmission mount and realized I had it on backwards! I must have thought about how to put it on properly for about 10 minutes a few weeks ago, and still managed to put it on wrong. Geesh. So the engine was slid back a bit and I got the mount flipped around.

Stupid transmission mount

It took a bit of coaxing, but eventually everything was in and bolted down. Most advice I got was to have the LH engine mount bolted to the car, and the RH mount bolted to the engine. We wound up removing the metal part of the mount from the RH side for a while so it wouldn't hang up on anything.

The two bottom bolts for the transmission are supposed to be a bit tricky to get in, but I didn't have any real trouble with them. Everything is now bolted up.

Engine in!

Once the engine was in and attached we rolled the Tunebug out into the sun to clean him off -- he's gotten a bit dusty over the last year. This was the first time in well over a year that the Tunebug has been off of the axle stands and out in the sun.

Mary puts on a tire

In the sun, first time in over a year

The team: Mary, Drew, Jenny

All in all a successful day. I really appreciated the help from Jenny and Mary. Having extra hands and eyes was very helpful. We did manage to scratch the valve cover a bit, but such is life. I can always repaint it if it bothers me.

For now it's just time to get the other bits assembled so that I can hear it run!

I've put a small parts order in yesterday, so I should have the bits I need for getting the engine running now. The task list is still long, but I think I can work my way through it quickly. Here's the list as of today, for your viewing pleasure.

Tunebug TODO list, in no particular order

Heater tap

• new baseplate ORDER
• hoses
• radiator -> heater pipe (clamps?)

Clutch slave

• bolts ORDER
• find pushrod ORDER

drive shaft install

brake line

• purchase clips ORDER
• tighten banjo bolts on calipers
• bleed brakes

steering rack lube

differential fluid

fuel tank wiring

starter bolts

• wire up starter

fuel pump install

• fuel hose and clamps ORDER
• mount pump
• wire the pump (switch?)
• plumb in pressure regulator
• regulator fittings ORDER
• carb to carb fuel line

headlight relay

• get relay ORDER
• wire to dimmer switch

water pump pulley/generator

• get spacer ORDER
• get fan belt ORDER
• install generator and wire up

install distributor and coil

• set up initial timing
• make new plug wires

install oil filter housing

install oil pressure gauge pipe

install radiator

• will previously purchased hoses work?
• install water temp into radiator
• plug temp port in head

install carbs

• washers for manifold?
• choke and gas pedal cables
• crankcase venting

instal exhaust

• brackets?

install shifter

install bonnet

• line up properly
• install bonnet stays
• drill pilot hole?

new tires?

new front cotter pins for the front hubs?

new battery

front end alignment

• torque down tie rod end holding nuts

grounding straps

vacuum line

install speed bleeders on all 4 brakes

So tonight I had a rehearsal cancel and found myself home a bit early with an unexpectedly free evening. Time to get to work! I had already prepped the car, putting it back up on the axle stands and removing the wheels a week or two ago. The goal for the evening was to install the clutch slave cylinder and finally get the brake lines finished up. They've been close to finished for months, but needed a final bit of tweaking to get them all in place.

Brake lines in place

A few hours of fiddling (those Brits must have tiny hands!) and the clutch slave and the last two brake lines were installed and tightened down. I'm not entirely pleased with them, especially with the bends on the m/c - union line and the clutch line, but if they work and don't leak I'll be plenty happy. While I was working I also installed the starter, oil pressure line to the gauge, and shifter. The biggie, though, is the brake lines. They've been hanging over my head since last April, and it feels good to have them sorted.

Oil pressure line and starter

Gear shifter in place

It feels really good to be getting back at it. Next up is the drive shaft, then it's time to tackle the conversion to an electric fuel pump. Once that's done, it should be a matter of bolting on the rest of the bits -- that's the last of the real engineering to do (other than a few exhaust hangers). We're back at it!

Driveshaft in place

Testing the connections

Making good progress now, and checking things off the list. Next up is the fuel system -- I need to install the new electric fuel pump and pressure regulator and get everything wired in and plumbed up. Then it's on to the engine ancillaries and starting up!

This required figuring out what pump to use, and thanks to the good folks at the British Car Forum I chose a Carter pump that should put out the low pressure I need for the Sprite. Next up was getting brave enough to drill a hole in the car for mounting the pump. I did wind up drilling the first hole incorrectly, as I didn't realize the panel I was drilling into was a boxed in. I had figured I would drill all the way through, so I sized the hole for a bolt. Turns out that panel is the first panel in a boxed in section, so I needed a smaller hole for a screw. Woops!

A fresh hole was then drilled, and the pump mounted using a bit of bike inner tube as an isolator. All that's left is to wire it up, and that part of fuel system will be ready to go.

Next up, installing ancillary engine bits!

Once that was out of the way I grabbed the world's most useful tool (the Dremel rotary tool) and did a minor bit of grinding to make room for the header. A nip here and a tuck there and the header was in. On went the carbs and the air/fuel side of the engine was looking good!

A few days ago I installed some of the bits on the other side of the engine as well, so the oil filter housing is in place (thanks to a fellow BCFer for the proper gasket) and the distributor is loosely in place as well. The distributor will still need to be placed properly, as it's probably 180 degrees out -- I didn't check the location, just got it in place.

Still a lot of fiddly work to do, but this was a nice bit of progress. Lots of adjustments and setup to do, but I should be ready to fire up the engine in a few weeks. Feels great to be getting closer!

Also picked up wiring for the fuel pump, just have to figure out how to run the wires to the pump. Moving right along...

Saturday I spent a good portion of the day running the wires for the new electric fuel pump. This entailed spending a goodly amount of time jammed into the rear area of the Tunebug. I'm really too big a guy to do that, but somehow I managed to fit. A few hours of work (interrupted by some leaf raking) and I was done with that project, and the Tunebug was back on his wheels again.

Sunday's work involved finishing up two more areas. First up was to run the rest of the fuel lines. I ran the soft lines to the front carb, and with a little bit of finagling got a line run between the two carbs. I'm not entirely sure this is the proper way to do this, but I think it will work. I ran a new line in the proper spot, but the line I ran was just a rubber one -- the original had a braided metal sheath. Not sure if this matters, but it's easy enough to fix later if necessary.

Finishing up the wiring was the next order of business. I wired up the fuel gauge and reattached the wires to the generator and distributor. I also reinstalled the high beam dipswitch in its original location; I was going to replace it with a relay and switch, but decided that could wait for another time.

Generator wired in

Gauges should all work now -- we'll see!

This was a good weekend's progress. I've still got a bunch of little things to do, but at least I'm making headway. Almost no way I will make the November 20th target, but such is the way of deadlines. I will have the car running this winter so that it will be ready for driving in the Spring!

In the end, though, I was victorious and now have the radiator and all water hoses installed and ready to go. Fan belt went on as well, and the generator should now be ready as well.

The next item to deal with is the exhaust. I have one in hand (from APT), just need to figure out how to get it mounted as it's a larger diameter than stock. If nothing else, I'll wing it with some coat hangers for now, and take it to a proper muffler shop once the car is running.

After that we'll be on the home stretch. Time to bleed the brakes and clutch and test all the other systems (fuel, wiring, etc.) before the big engine start.

Joe, Me, Bill

My friends Joe and Bill joined me for an hour or so of Tunebuggery this morning. Installing the bonnet on a Bugeye is not particularly hard, and it's not even really all that heavy, but it does take three people to get the job done. Joe and Bill graciously agreed to pop over to my place and lend a hand. A bit of grunting and some minor adjustments and we had the bonnet back in place and the windscreen bolted down.

Bonnet working as it should

I should add here that the real danger is that there is some sort of issue with the engine or clutch, and the whole thing (including that bonnet) has to come off/out again. I'm mostly just hoping that doesn't happen -- I've got plenty to do anyways, and have to be able to open the bonnet up to get to work.

First up will be to go through all the wiring and make sure everything is functional. I replaced the entire harness back when I got the car (four years ago!) but it's been sitting for the last three. Then it's on to bleeding the brakes and clutch and doing all the final adjustments before the big engine start day.

It will be a busy spring!

Couldn't resist putting the top and side curtains on again

Back down to a 2.5 car garage, lots of space now!

The final little job was to clean off the workbench and get ready for the final push to getting the Tunebug back on the road. It's been just a bit over 4 years (4 years and 4 days as I write this) since I first brought the little car home, and it was at about this same time then that I was working on replacing wires and getting the car back on the road. So here I am again, Spring is coming and it's time to be driving again!

I now have the final list of projects to complete before starting the engine. It's on a white board out in the garage -- can't guarantee that it won't grow a bit, but the list is as comprehensive as I could make it for now. Will feel good to start crossing things off the list.

The list

First up was a simple install of the new velocity stacks I got from Hap. I hadn't been sure that the included bolts were the proper ones, but a but of reassurance from Hap and a few moments with my tap set saw the bolts fitting properly and the velocity stacks installed. I'll be ordering the proper air filters in the next few days.

In a classic while-I'm-in-there momement I decided to hook up the rest of the wiring (and removed the cable to the starter as a precaution). Once the wires to the bonnet were reconnected it was time to put in the key and see if the lights still work. With only one badly run wire to fix I was back in the light! I've got headlights (high and low beams), turn signals, rear running lights, and wipers.

The horn isn't working properly, so that's the next thing in line, hopefully on Thursday. With those little projects cleared away it's time for the first big one -- bleeding the brakes and clutch. If those go well, then I'm golden. If not... send lots of positive vibes my way!

After a bit of fiddling and some excellent advice from the British Car Forum I was able to make the clutch and brakes both work. They're not ready for a long drive yet, but they do function at a basic level.

So why is this important? If there is a problem with the clutch, the engine and transmission have to come out. By passing this test I can get on with the final preparations for firing up the engine. I can't guarantee that everything is in perfect working order, but the initial results are very promising. I feel much more confident in proceeding with getting the engine ready for it's first startup.

The list continues to grow, but at least there are things being checked off of it now. Onward and upwards!

Once that was done it was time for adding some oil to the engine, transmission, and differential. As it was still a bit cold today, it took a while for everything to flow as it should. Still, after a short bit of work there was oil in all the right places. I also took a moment to bleed the clutch again -- it feels good, so I think I'm in good shape there.

Next up was an attempt to solve the issue I was having with my new steering wheel and the horn. When I test-fit the new wheel it fit fine, with one major problem -- the horn worked just fine, but it worked all the time! The hub for the steering wheel was making contact with the ring that sits on the steering column to activate the horn. Not good. I looked at my factory wheel, and noticed that there was a groove in the bottom of the hub; a groove that my new wheel didn't have. So out came the trusty Dremel tool and a few grinding discs, and after quite a bit of work the new wheel fit properly and was not making the horn go all the time.

It's not very pretty, but no one sees this part

It looks like the wheel hub was not quite machined properly when it was made, but it's working fine now. Once again, the Dremel tool rides in to save the day!

The final test was to do a complete install of the wheel, including tightening it down all the way to make sure it wasn't still rubbing anywhere. A few moments to get it centered and tightened down, and all was well. It sure looks good, and really makes the car. A small detail, to be sure, but the rosewood really stands out against the white and black of the rest of the car.

One more step closer!

So off to the parts store for a few bits and bobs, and I as back to working on the wiring under the dash. It's a really good thing that I'm not a bug guy, otherwise working under that dash would be really difficult...

So I got everything hooked up and did a very quick test -- and voila, there was a whirring noise from the pump! Next I got a bit of gas into the fuel tank and diverted the fuel line in the engine bay into a spare can. Turned on the power and there was gas pumping through the lines. Woohoo! The only problem is that the fuel gauge seems to be non-functioning, but that's not a real problem right now. Just something for the summer fix-it list.

Hard to see, but there's fuel in the filter

Once everything was working, I had to figure out where to mount the on/off switch for the fuel pump. While I was rooting around under the dash, I remembered that there are a couple of holes in the dash that were just covered by the new vinyl. The Tunebug doesn't have a heater or windscreen washer, so those holes are empty for the time being. A bit of work with an exacto knife, and I had the switch mounted in the dash. It's a more modern switch than I want to use long term, but it will work well enough for now until I can find the proper period switch.

The last little bit was to run some hose from the cannister on the timing cover. This will keep any pressure buildup from running oil all over my nice clean engine. I may eventually put some sort of filter on the end, but it'll work for now. I also filled up the radiator, so that's one more thing off the list.

I'm very close now to having the Tunebug ready for the first engine start attempt. Tomorrow's job is to install spark plug wires and set the timing. Once all that is done I'll be down to figuring out the exhaust and doing the final set of checks. I expect to be able to try firing up the new motor in the next couple of weeks.

Then it was on to making up some spark plug wires and finishing up a few other odds and ends. At this point I'm one more day of checks and an exhaust system away from firing up the motor for the first time. Very exciting!

First I had to re-route the line from the block to the gauge, as it was interfering with the distributor (specifically the vacuum advance thingy). I spent a few minutes with my trusty pipe bender and all was well. I reset the static timing and decided to give the oil pressure a try.

Hap had given me a few tips on getting going. I pulled off the fitting that goes to the oil filter, and tried to crank the motor. Nothing (no cranking at all). Ahh, I've seen this before... a minute spent with some rubber insulation and tape to keep the starter cable from grounding out, and I had a spinning motor.

Hap suggested that this method should allow me to see when the oil was starting to move from the pump. I wasn't getting anything, so I followed another suggestion of his and poured a bit of oil down that opening and rotated the engine backwards to pull it into the pump as a priming method. Once that was done, it was back on with the fitting and a bit more cranking -- and checking for major leaks (none found so far).

A quick move to where I could see the oil gauge, and in a short time (less than 1 minute) I had pressure at the gauge. Woohoo!

Afterwards I poured a small measure of The Macallan in celebration.

Joe and I had a great day of Tunebug work, getting the alignment done and another pass at bleeding the brakes in addition to the biggie, which was firing up the new motor for the first time.

Just a few more small odds and ends before we can be back on the street again. Woohoo!

Before I got dirty on the car, however, I popped down to the DMV and got my temporary tags so I can legally drive on the roads (for 15 days) while I get things sorted out. I was also relieved that my TUNEBUG plates were still okay. I didn't expect anyone else would have taken them over the last year (and I think it takes more than a year to be released) but still it's nice to have that settled.

The upshot of all of this is that the last thing to be done is the exhaust system. I've got to get the car to the exhaust shop to have the muffler installed, and I'll be able to get the inspection done and be back on the road again. Still lots of tuning to do, but I'll be roadworthy again.

I honor of all this work, I took the Tunebug out for a little test drive. Just couldn't resist. Hopefully the neighbors didn't mind the straight pipe too much.

Weather cleared quite nicely by the time I got home today, so I fired up the Tunebug for another testing run, and stopped by the muffler shop while I was out (it's just a few miles down the road). They can do the work on Tuesday, and I had already cleared the date with my boss. Weather is supposed to be clear as well. Shop opens at 8:00 am, and I'll be there right on time.

If all goes well I'll get the inspection and registration done the same day. Woohoo!

On a side note, the Tunebug held 60+ oil pressure and 180 water temp for the 20 or so minutes I was driving around. No major leaks seen yet, just a few here and there to track down. So far so good. Still need to set the timing properly, but it is close enough to be running okay.

So y'all will need to have glasses ready for Tuesday night. I consider registering the car to be the end of this 3-year project. Certainly still lots to do to have everything dialed in properly, and many more things that need attention (like some bodywork, the rear suspension...) as these cars are never really *done*, but getting back on the road is, for me, the critical benchmark. I'll finally be a car owner and not just a project slave. Keep in mind that I've never had a properly running LBC, so I'm ready to get out there and drive!

This is a significant milestone, as it's now time to change the oil and do a good once over on all the major systems. It also means that I should be able to start driving the car a bit harder and will be able to see what the new motor can really do.

I passed the magic 500 mile mark while out on a short drive today, and did put my foot down a bit harder when I had a nice stretch of empty road. I think the new motor is going to work out very nicely!

The Bonneville was a good bike, and I really enjoyed the miles I put on it. I wouldn't be surprised if I wound up with another one some day. That said, it was time to move on and try something different.

So goodbye to the Bonneville. May you give your new owner many miles and smiles.